Native American Jewelry Repair – Vintage Inlay Belt Buckle

This is the first in a series of repair articles that I am writing in conjunction with Diane from Old Town Trading Co. in Scottsdale, AZ.  See contact information at the end of this article. We appreciate OTTC’s help and expertise in this series.

Read the introductory article “Repair and Restoration of Native American Jewelry”

 

Question:

Is it possible to repair or restore Native American jewelry?

 

Answer:

Yes, we have Native American Silversmiths working for us here on premises, who are accomplished artisans and expert repair people.  We service repairs for customers and jewelers all over the United States.

Question:

How can we find out what you can do and how much it will cost?

Answer:

You can photograph or scan your jewelry and email the picture to us.  We can usually give you an idea of the repair needed and a ballpark estimate from your photo.  If you decide to proceed, you then mail your jewelry to us.  Once we receive the item and have a chance to thoroughly inspect it we call you with a firm price for the repairs.

Question:

Can you outline the procedure for this inlay buckle repair?

Inlay buckle showing missing pieces.

Answer:

From the customer’s picture, we saw that 7 pieces of coral and shell were missing.  An estimate for this repair was $85.00 plus $15 to return ship and insure.  However, once we received the buckle, we found that the back of the buckle had serious cracks forming in the silver at two edges.  It looked like the buckle had flexed back at that point, causing the tearing to begin.  All of the missing stones were right on top of the bend – that’s no doubt why they popped out.

 

Back of buckle showing stress cracks from bending.

Question:

What do you do at that point?

 

Answer:

Simply replacing the missing stones was still an option.  However, once metal has bent, it “wants” to bend in that very same spot again, causing further damage to the piece.  We suggested to the owner that our silversmith could solder a thicker sheet of silver to the back of the buckle, making it much stronger and resistant to any further flexing. 

 

Question:

How is that done?

 

Answer:

Our silversmith removes all of the stones from the front, as well as all of the pieces from the back (the buckle bar, pin, and Massie’s signature plate).  He hot solders a piece of sterling silver, cut exactly to size, to the back of the buckle to add stability, and then reattaches everything the way it was.  The end result is that the buckle looks exactly the same as it did, just a little heftier in weight.

 

Question:

Was there an additional charge for that?

 

Answer:

Yes.  The charge for restoring the buckle in this fashion was $200, instead of $85.  The customer decided to have us restore his buckle, as he was looking forward to wearing it frequently.

Repaired buckle back

Repaired buckle front.

 

Old Town Trading Company has been in business in Scottsdale, AZ for 26 years and has 2 Native American artists who perform expert repairs and renovations to new and vintage pieces.

 

Old Town Trading Co. / Jewels of the West

4009 N. Brown Avenue

Scottsdale, AZ  85251

480-970-8065

Attn: Diane

jewelsofthewest@qwestoffice.net

 

Any information on this well worn buckle?

Hi Paula,

I wonder if you know anything about this old buckle. Tony

Hi Tony,

It is chip inlay.

Chip inlay is a method where cavities in jewelry are filled with a mixture of crushed stone, typically turquoise and coral, and epoxy resin. The piece is then polished smooth after the resin has hardened. Navajo Tommy Singer is credited for first using chip inlay in Native American jewelry.

It is of a peyote or water bird – you can read about that symbol by clicking this phrase.

It is likely by Tommy Singer, Navajo silversmith.  Here are some articles about other Tommy Singer pieces.

Pin Pendant

Pin

The Snake Symbol in Native American Culture

The snake in some Native American cultures represents speed and swiftness, the same properties as lightning or the lightning arrow and they often have a similar visual form. The snake does not symbolize anything negative or treacherous. Rather, the snake represents abundant rainfall, fertility and healing. Snake symbols are rarely seen in Navajo jewelry and art but are often used by Zuni.

We here in northern Colorado live with snakes on a seasonal basis – they are part of the landscape and ecosystem. Since our climate is semi-arid, we welcome the abundant rainfall the snake might bring.

Native American Designs Stand the Test of Time

Native American designs, garments and jewelry are always popular, with many new admirers attracted to them every day.

While other fashion trends might come and go, the meaningful Native American symbols, designs, and materials which are tied to Mother Earth and all of her creatures and cycles and powers are alluring and enduring.

Western Lifestyle Spring 2012 Issue "American Indian Fashion is Enduring Fashion"

We encourage you, whenever possible, to purchase authentic Native American jewelry and clothing made by Native American craftsmen.

In that way, you will be helping to preserve the traditions by supporting the traditionalists.

Some of the Concho Belts from the White Buffalo Collection

What a diverse group of belts I’ve been researching this week. Here are a few samples from the White Buffalo Collection.

Irene Chiquito, Navajo

 

Navajo Blanket Design Overlay by DB

 

Tommy Singer, Navajo

 

R & G Daye, Navajo

 

History

The word concho comes from the Spanish “concha” which actually means “conch” or “seashell” but has come to mean round or oval disks (occasionally rectangles) of silver used to decorate saddles, bridles, clothing, used as jewelry such as for pendants and bolo ties and for adorning or making belts.

Concho belts are a long-time Navajo tradition yet it has been suggested that the Navajo borrowed conchos from Mexican tack items or from the Plains Indians.

The earliest conchos were silver dollars that were hammered, then stamped and edged, then slotted and strung together on a piece of leather.

Later in the evolution of concho belts, copper loops were added to the back of the conchos so that the conchos could be slipped onto a leather belt.

To read the complete article click here.

Navajo Turquoise and Sterling Silver Belt Buckle Hallmarked EM

Hi Paula

I have attached some images of the belt buckle.  I would like to know who made the buckle – it has a marking of “EM” on the back.  Also, I would like to know an estimate of its age.  Thanks for your help!

Ryan

Hi Ryan,

Using the penny in your other photo as scale, it looks like this buckle is about 4″ x 4″, so what a nice chunk of beautiful turquoise that is !

Judging from the style and nice stone and the hallmark, I’d guess this is a 1970s Navajo made belt buckle.

I don’t know who EM is but we have had once piece with that hallmark in our pawn shop. I was unable to identify EM at that time and still don’t know !

Perhaps one of the readers of this blog might know.

Good treasure Ryan.

Whirling Logs Silver Turquoise Belt Buckle

Hi Paula,

These are the photos of the Whirling Logs turquoise silver belt buckle I had e-mailed you about.  The buckle is approx. 3 and 3/4 inches wide by 2 and 1/2 inches tall.  The second photo — of the bear claw hallmark on the back — isn’t great, but I have no photo tweaking programs and I am about as computer illiterate as a person can be.  I hope it will do. I don’t know what the black pen mark “135—” means on the back of the buckle; I inherited these items from my father and don’t know if that’s what he paid for it back in the 60s or 70s or what.

I would like to know more about the piece: its age, what the hallmark means, et al.

Thank you so much.  Leigh

Hi Leigh,

First of all, what a nice treasure to inherit from your father.  I’ll mention some things I can tell from the photos and some things I can’t determine from photos.

First of all, whether or not this is sterling silver or a lesser silver (such as coin silver) or another metal can be determined by a simple acid test. Any jeweler can do this for you. Knowing the metal content will impact the value of the piece, so it is always good to know what you have that way. Reference “Not All Silver is Created Equal”.

As far as the stones, they appear to be natural turquoise stones set in smooth bezels. As far as what mine they would be from, I’d be guessing just using this one photo, but they are full of matrix and character and nicely placed. References “Types of Bezels” and “Turquoise Mines in the US” and “Green Turquoise”.

The magic marker number on the back is indeed the price. I’ve always thought that it is an odd way to mark a piece of art, but that has been the tradition with much Native American jewelry.   So that is likely what the asking price was for the buckle back when your father purchased it. Whether or not he paid that much, we don’t know because negotiating prices on Native American jewelry is common with many buyers – almost a hobby with them.

The piece seems consistent with the era you suggest – 1960s to 1970s..

I’d say it is a Navajo made belt buckle.

The hallmark is similar to many Navajo and Hopi badger or bear track hallmarks I have seen yet I don’t know of one that is exactly like this one, so I am afraid I have come up empty on the artist.

The whirling log design is described in my article on that topic here on this blog. “Whirling Logs”

Enjoy that unique belt buckle !

Paula Please Help – Information on Navajo Artist Timothy Lee

Dear Paula

I have a beautiful belt buckle by the Navajo artist, “Timothy Lee”.  But, I can’t find any information about him anywhere, do you have anything by him or know of him??

Tallbear

Hi Tallbear,

Here is what it says in “Hallmarks of the Southwest” by Barton Wright.

Timothy Lee is a Navajo silversmith from the Mentmore, New Mexico region.

Hallmark is stamped full name in two lines of 1/16 Gothic print.

TIMOTHY
LEE

We have silver beads made by Betty Lee and Susie Lee.

And turquoise rings by Larson Lee.

Sterling Silver and Turquoise Ring by Larson Lee, Navajo

Maybe someone else will write in with more information on Timothy Lee.

If you have a question about your jewelry, use the ASK PAULA A QUESTION feature in the right hand column of this blog.

Unique Native American Belt Buckle – MT hallmark

Hi Paula,

I was given a very unique turquoise, coral and – not sure what the large center stone is (have been told different things including petrified wood) belt buckle years ago.  The shape and silver work are highly unusual.  The hallmark on the back is MT with something after the T that looks like a small crescent.  Can I send a photo of front and back?  Would love to identify artist!

Thanks,  Annie

Hi Annie,

That is a very unique buckle ! If it is stone, I’m thinking a jasper, perhaps picture jasper, but that’s just a guess.

I know of several MT hallmarks, and two have a rocker UNDER the MT but I don’t know of any with a crescent or rocker off to the side.

I thought I’d post this in case another reader might have some ideas.

Native American Hallmark Query – Belt Buckle – Wero?

Dear Paula,

I have several pieces of Native American southwest Santa Fe, New Mexico sterling & gold turquoise  jewelry by the same artist. Purchased over 20 years ago and I have been searching for a name to go with the jewelry. It is just gorgeous and very detailed, BUT to no avail.

Would like to send photos of the artistic logo. Do you think this could be an early piece by F. Wero?

Thanks for your help ahead of time.  Elyn

I am not familiar with the hallmarks or the artist you suggest.

I’m posting this so that if anyone else can help you, they can add a comment to the end of this post. And Elyn, if you find out any information, I’d appreciate it if you would add it as a comment at the end of the post also.