Vintage Dooney & Bourke All Weather Leather Made in USA bags – miscellaneous Q&A

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Hi Paula.

I really like this bag.  It is the AWL drawstring sling in  Navy.   It is listed as small.  Does it come in any other  sizes?

Vintage Navy All Weather Leather Dooney & Bourke Drawstring Bag P64

If you look on on the Drawstring Handbag Page

you will see Small and Large bags, so yes, this does come in Large.

Dooney & Bourke often uses the word Small just to differentiate between various models of the same bag – the small bags are often quite roomy. Use the dimensions to tell you if the bag seems small or large to you !

And, when do you replenish inventory?

We replenish inventory weekly This week we will be adding backpacks. New bags show up on our “new items” page
so you can look at that every so often to see what we have just listed.

My main question is about the price. I see some bags listed for $275 when it states that it  retailed for $265 in 1996.  Why would a used bag cost more than a new  one?

The prices includes shipping to the US. These are vintage collectible bags because they are the ones made in the USA. Dooney & Bourke bags are no longer made in the USA. The vintage All Weather Leather bags that we carry were made in the USA.

What about the rating system?

Bag Condition Score Guidelines
10	Like New	Just like new. Shows virtually no signs of use. All bags are pre-owned but the bags in this category do not appear to have been used.
9.5	Almost New	May have faint signs of use (will be noted specifically in description) but is almost new. There might be a scratch or light wear on the brass or a tiny scuff or stain on the leather. Read the details and look at the photos.
9	Excellent	No major problems. Everything is structurally in very fine shape and the bag has been very well cared for. Any slight problems will be noted in detail. There might be a scuff on the leather duck, or a very small stain inside. Read the details and look at the photos.
8	Very Good	Normal wear but very good care. May have a minor issue such as one small ink mark or slight darkening of leather in a spot. All problems will be noted in detail. Read the details and look at the photos.
7	Good	A bag that was used, well cared for and not abused. Will likely show some noticeable wear such as scuff marks on the bottom piping, some darkening of leather where handled such as the strap and fasteners. Read the details and look at the photos.
6	Fair	Might need a cleaning, minor repair – details will note this. These bags are usually located in our Grab Bag section. Some might be in excellent shape except for one stain or blemish. Read the details and look at the photos.

We usually only try to offer bags that are 9s and 10s but sometimes when someone wants to sell us a lot, it might contain some 7s and 8s or perhaps even a 6. When we buy those lots, we put the more worn bags in our “grab bag” section.

I went to the mall today and every D&B I looked at was Made in China.  I called the Dooney & Bourke web site and they wouldn’t  tell me which purses were made where.  I  really want a Dooney made here but I don’t know if new is an option  anymore.
Please advise.  Thanks so much. Michelle

Dooney & Bourke no longer makes any bags in the US. All are made overseas, mostly China. That’s why we started our store ! Paula

Dooney and Bourke – Difference between the Classic Satchel and the Shoulder Satchel

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Hi Paula,

I’m loving the Norfolk Satchel!

Is the Classic Satchel the same as the Shoulder Satchel? I’m interested in buying one of them.

Thanks, Anne-Marie

Hi Anne-Marie,

The two bags you are asking about are in the same Dooney & Bourke Collection – one they call Zipper Top Cases.  They have zip tops with extended zipper, are fully lined with leather, have hand-stitched detachable handles. Also, depending on the year the bags are from, both would have detachable, adjustable shoulder straps. However, in early years the Classic Satchel did not come with a shoulder strap.

The Classic Satchel R29 is 8 inches tall x 11 3/4″ long and it is 5 1/2″ deep at the base. It has 6 brass feet on the bottom.

The Shoulder Satchel R21 is 10 inches tall x  13 long and it is  3 1/2″ deep at the base. The bottom is smooth leather, with no brass feet.

Here are some photos to show you the differences.

Classic Satchel R29

Classic Satchel R29 Bottom

Shoulder Satchel R21

Shoulder Satchel R21 Bottom

Dooney & Bourke Handbags – What is Drop Length?

Authentic Made in USA Dooney & Bourke AWL Vintage Saddle Bag

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Drop length relates to the length of the shoulder strap on a purse.  Specifically, it is the distance from the top of the folded shoulder strap to the top of the bag as shown in this photo.

We started out using Dooney & Bourke’s measurements from their vintage catalogs but have recently found that many of those measurements were inaccurate, so from our item #598 and up, we are using the following method:

We buckle the strap on its longest setting and then its shortest setting and report those two measurements.

I’d like to update all of our older pages to this new, more useful method but time constraints don’t allow that right now. So, if you are looking at a bag on our site that has an item number under #598 and you are concerned about the strap length, feel free to write me and I’ll measure, let you know the actual measurements, and update that bag’s page.

Authentic Made in USA Dooney & Bourke Cavalry Body Bag

Determining Authenticity of AWL Dooney Bourke Bag

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Hi Paula, how do i determine if i have an actual authentic awl dooney and bourke it has the leather duck logo and the red white and blue dooney and bourke made in usa with the regristration number A 167371 what other characteristics should i look for it definitely appears to be real help please! thanks a bunch if you could get back to me or email me i would really appreciate it and if it helps i can send you pictures thanks again paula! looking foward to hearing from you soon. kim

Hi Kim,

You can read all of that here

Characteristics of Authentic Dooney & Bourke AWL Bags.

And there are more articles here on the Dooney & Bourke Information page

Best of luck and enjoy your vintage AWL bags !

Dooney & Bourke Registration Tags

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Hello Paula,

I have a question about Dooney serial numbers.  I have recently inherited a large number of vintage Dooney’s Some of them are exactly as you stated in your web site others have a serial number that starts with a “B” but still has the red white and blue made in USA tag.  I also have what is a newer one that has the red, white, blue tag with no USA and the serial number starts with a “J”. Do you know what country this may have been made?  I am sure these are authentic and they match up with my Dooney, which I know is authentic.   I am not sure if a I want to sell these or start collecting vintage Dooney’s myself.  Can you help me??

Carmen R

Authentic Dooney & Bourke All Weather Leather Essex Handbag Made in USA

Hi Carmen,

Lucky you to inherit a large number of Dooneys !

First of all, counterfeiters are very clever and make their own faux leather duck seals, tags and fobs to try to make bags look authentic. But if a bag is indeed authentic, the sewn in tags do provide some information.

Authentic bags that have the red, white and blue Dooney & Bourke, Made in USA label sewn inside, the first portion of the serial number on the back will start with either an A or a B and that indicates what factory in the USA the bag came from. That is what was told to me by a Dooney & Bourke representative.

Authentic Dooney & Bourke All Weather Leather Surrey Handbag Made in USA

So if you look on the Authenticating Factors of Vintage All Weather Leather Dooney & Bourke page, you will see an example A5 179535. The A5 indicates the factory in the US where the bag was made and the other six digits are its unique registration number.

Authentic Dooney & Bourke Air Force Blue Horseshoe Handbag Made in USA

When the red white and blue tag on an authentic bag only says Dooney & Bourke, it indicates the bag was not made in the US. The serial number will start with the letter assigned to the country where the bag was made.

C indicates Costa Rica
H indicates China
I indicates Italy
M indicates Mexico.

You ask about J. I haven’t ever seen that – one automatically thinks Japan, but I’m just guessing. Maybe by posting, we will find someone who knows.

Dooney & Bourke – Authenticity

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Hello,
I recently purchased 2ea D & B handbags at a thrift store.  They were all dirty and I paid 10.00 for each.  I brought them home and cleaned them with a soft cloth with just soap and water.  They dont have any tears only some slightly little scratches on one of them.  One of the bags I think, is an authentic D & B, I can tell because all the rivets say Dooney and Bourke, it has the red white blue tag and it looks authentic to me.  The other bag, I can’t seem to find a picture of it anywhere online!  Its a double strap shoulder bag, it has 5 little feet at the bottom and inside where the feet are they say Dooney Bourke.  The straps dont come off, they are sewn onto the outer side of the bag, it does have a red white and blue tag with serial number, it has a top zipper opening and a pocket on front and back along the length or width of the bag.  They both have the duck seal in the front in good condition that says All Weather Leather. Do you think this might be a fake D & B?  I love D & B and thought this was a good buy since they are the vintage all weather leather bags.  I own authentic D & B bags so I’m not sure what to think on these 2. Can you help me on this?
Thank You, Maria

Hi Maria,

First I want to be sure you know about our pages that list the authenticity factors of Dooney & Bourke handbags and accessories.
Bag #1

Usually if the rivets say Dooney & Bourke on them, the bag is authentic. That coupled with the fact that it has the “Dooney & Bourke Made in USA” red, white and blue tag sewn inside with a serial number on the back makes it almost positive the bag is authentic.

Bag #2

Since you say it does have the RWB tag with serial number, that should be enough to authenticate it. But as I read your note I wonder if you meant to say “it does not have…..”?

From what you write, they both seem authentic and at $10 each, if the condition is good without soiling, odors or damage to leather or stitching, you got a great buy.

I’m sending you my email address so you can send me photos if you like.

Dooney & Bourke – Drawstring Bags

 

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Are the small drawstring bags made any more?   I notice you say  1994
referencing price for  one.   Thanks, Bobbie

Hi Bobbie,

As far as I know, using my vintage catalogs as guides, most of the All Weather Leather (AWL) styles were discontinued in the early 1990s and the last catalog I have with a few limited styles that were Made in USA is dated 1999.
If you are asking about drawstring bags other than the AWL bags, I can’t
answer that. We are just into the original authentic Dooney & Bourke Made in USA AWL bags here.

Here are the drawstrings we currently have for sale

Authentic Dooney & Bourke Drawstring Bag

Paula
Manager
Horsekeeping

Authentic All Weather Leather Dooney & Bourke Bags

Do we Buy Dooney & Bourke Vintage AWL bags?

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Do we Buy Dooney & Bourke Vintage AWL bags?

©  2010 Horsekeeping © Copyright Information

Dear Paula,

I have a hardly used white Dooney Bag (I think it is the Calvary kind)-AWL from the 80′s, I think…that my mother had.  It is almost like new…little use.

I was wondering if you purchase these bags to resell?  I’m not sure how to sell it?

thanks, Ann

 

Yes we do buy Dooney and Bourke All Weather Leather (AWL) bags if they are authentic All Weather Leather bags and meet the following criteria.

Look here for authenticating factors and photos.

The bags and wallets and other AWL items must be:

• smoke free
• perfume free
• Febreze free
• odor free (no mustiness).

They must have:

• The red, white and blue Made in USA tag sewn inside with serial number on the back.
• The tag should not be snipped or torn.
• If vintage they would have the large green tag.
• If the bag is a pre-tag bag, then it will not need to have the sewn in tag.

The bags should be in very good to excellent condition, that is an 8-10 according to our Bag Condition Score Guidelines.

Bag Condition Score Guidelines
10	Like New	Just like new. Shows virtually no signs of use. All bags are pre-owned but the bags in this category do not appear to have been used.
9.5	Almost New	May have faint signs of use (will be noted specifically in description) but is almost new. There might be a scratch or light wear on the brass or a tiny scuff or stain on the leather. Read the details and look at the photos.
9	Excellent	No major problems. Everything is structurally in very fine shape and the bag has been very well cared for. Any slight problems will be noted in detail. There might be a scuff on the leather duck, or a very small stain inside. Read the details and look at the photos.
8	Very Good	Normal wear but very good care. May have a minor issue such as one small ink mark or slight darkening of leather in a spot. All problems will be noted in detail. Read the details and look at the photos.
7	Good	A bag that was used, well cared for and not abused. Will likely show some noticeable wear such as scuff marks on the bottom piping, some darkening of leather where handled such as the strap and fasteners. Read the details and look at the photos.
6	Fair	Might need a cleaning, minor repair – details will note this. These bags are usually located in our Grab Bag section. Some might be in excellent shape except for one stain or blemish. Read the details and look at the photos.

 

If you have a bag or a collection of bags, DON’T send any photos.
Instead contact me through our website and send a list of what bags you have using the names we have on our site (which are official D&B names - see bags we carry).

For each bag, list the

• Name
• Color
• Condition Score (see chart above)
• Note of any damage, stains, missing pieces
• Price including shipping that you want for the bag.

Then if it is something we are interested in and your expectation is within our budget, I will contact you and ask for a photo.

We help many people clear out their closets and turn stash into cash but we ask that you follow our guidelines.

If you send a photo without a prior request, it will be automatically deleted along with your message and we will never see your message.

If you send a list of bags without prices, we can’t proceed.

Characteristics of Authentic Dooney & Bourke All Weather Leather (AWL) Handbags

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Characteristics of Authentic Dooney & Bourke

All Weather Leather (AWL) Handbags

©  2010 Horsekeeping © Copyright Information

A reader wrote:

I thought D&B AWL bags didn’t come out until the 1980′s.  I have a over/under tack bag with a green sewn in label, I also have an older style large equestrian bag, with no inside tag, old stylized tag and older style shoulder strap anchors.  What year would those be from?

Dooney & Bourke bags sold for between $200-380 in the 1980s and 1990s which invited knock offs and fakes to flood the market. But it only takes a few seconds to spot the difference in materials, workmanship and feel of the great Dooney & Bourke handbags, briefcases, totes, wallets and other items in the All Weather Collection.

To help, authentic Dooney & Bourke items have some identifying features. Note that in the early 1980′s before the AWL (All-Weather Leather) bags went into production, the Equestrian bags, for example, were made of wonderful bridle leather but it was NOT waterproof. Also those early bags, because they were not AWL bags, did not have the Duck Leather seal or the Brass Duck fob as these signify the waterproof aspects – like water shedding from a duck’s feathers. So bear that in mind as you shop for authentic bags. There are some absolutes but some anomalies along the way also. To the best of my knowledge and by researching in my vintage Dooney & Bourke catalog collection, here’s the scoop.

©  2010 Horsekeeping © Copyright Information

Early AWL bags (early 1980s) usually will have:
Original Dooney & Bourke solid brass fob with a stylized backward D and a B.
Solid brass hardware including all buckles, rivets, D-rings and latches.
Very early bags (1981-1982) have no sewn in cloth tags. The first sewn-in tags (1983-1984) were fairly large green rectangles sewn flat into the bag that said: Dooney & BourkeDB (in the stylized backward D and a B) Made in USA. Since 1985 or 1986, the red, white and blue tags were sewn as tabs inside the bag in conjunction with a seam. They say:Dooney & Bourke, Inc.Made in USAand they have a registration number on the back.See further notes about this tag below.

©  2010 Horsekeeping © Copyright Information Handbags in the AWL collection (1983-1990s) usually will have:
Oval leather duck logo glued and sewn on the front or back of the bag depending on style.
Solid brass hardware including all buckles, rivets, D-rings and latches. Rivets are usually stamped with Dooney & Bourke.
Solid brass Duck fob hanging from a leather thong. The fob says Dooney & Bourke All-Weather Leather (with a registered trademark symbol) Authentic duck fobs show a sharp, detailed eye, some space between the duck’s bill and his body and a textured background. In the late 1990s, some collections had Solid Nickel or Nickel Plated Duck fobs.
Label of red, white and blue fabric sewn inside the purse that says “Dooney & Bourke” Made in USA” on one side…
…and an individual registration number on the other side. Usually the serial numbers are something like this: A1 777853; They indicate the style of bag, where the bag was made and the year it was made.

About Registration Tags

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Very early bags have no sewn in cloth regitration tags.
The first sewn-in tags (1983-1984) were fairly large green rectangles sewn flat into the bag that said:

Dooney & Bourke
DB
Made in USA

After 1985, the tags were red, white and blue and were sewn as tabs inside the bag in conjunction with a seam. They say:

Dooney & Bourke, Inc.
Made in USA
and they have a registration number on the back.

Some more recent bags (1990s) have been manufactured in the US but assembled elsewhere, such as Costa Rica. Those bags have red, white and blue sewn-in tags that say Dooney & Bourke Inc. but the tag does not say Made in USA. Instead there is often a (leather or cloth) tag underneath the red, white and blue tag that says where the bag was assembled such as the example above which shows a blue cloth tag that says “Assembled in Costa Rica.

In these assembled-overseas bags, there is a registration number on the back of the red, white and blue tag and the letter it stars with indicates the country where the bag was assembled.

C indicates Costa Rica
H indicates China
I indicates Italy
M indicates Mexico.

This registration tag system was used when Dooney & Bourke was producing a limited amount of collections. As the company got larger, it no longer assigned individual registration numbers to each bag.

Tags removed or snipped? Often we will see tags that are snipped or partially or completely torn out of the bags. If a tag is snipped but is mostly still there, it probably indicates that the bag was sold at an outlet store – it is likely authentic but might have been an overstock or slightly imperfect bag. If a tag is completely ripped out, leaving only a few red and white threads, I am always suspicious. Such bags might be authentic but it would be difficult to authenticate them without a registration number.

Since there are so many knock-off designer bags out there, it pays to do a little homework before you buy.

©  2010 Horsekeeping © Copyright Information

We only sell authentic Dooney & Bourke leather handbags. We feel Dooney & Bourke bags from the 1980s and 1990s are the best bags you can find. They are extremely high quality, made in USA, registered bags.

“We hope you enjoy looking through the bags we’ve found and
that you see one that suits you to a T.”

History of Dooney Bourke All Weather Leather Handbags

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History of Dooney & Bourke

All Weather Leather Handbags

©  2010 Horsekeeping © Copyright Information

What does this have to do with Native American Jewelry? Well, nothing really except for the fact that it is another thing I am passionate about. In this post, I’ll tell you a little bit about vintage Dooney & Bourke All Weather Leather bags and in future posts, more about the various styles and characteristics – how to spot an authentic bag and a fake.

But first, a taste of history………

Dooney & Bourke All Weather Leather Handbags

Dooney & Bourke started in 1975 when Peter Dooney & Frederic Bourke launched their namesake in South Norwalk, Connecticut. They started off with two notable introductory products: surcingle belts which were widely popular due to their unique, vibrant colors and stripes and classic suspenders, which experienced a surge in popularity thanks to the film “Chariots of Fire”.

In 1981 Dooney & Bourke branched out into the handbag business with the release of the Tack Case and the Equestrian Bag both made from bridle leather. Along with their original distributors such as Nordstrom, Brooks Brothers, and Saks Fifth Avenue, they opened The Company Store in Norwalk, Ct, which sold among other things, Dooney & Bourke Merchandise.

In 1983, with the development of their famous All-Weather Leather, the first AWL handbag collection was released featuring the unmistakable duck logo with the russet leather trim.

All-Weather Leather (AWL) is just like the name suggests – waterproof 100% cowhide – water sheds off these bags like it does off a duck’s back. The process of producing AWL is a secret but a big part of it is shrinking the leather so that the pores are sealed.

From the Dooney & Bourke catalog:

“The Essence of All-Weather Leather
The secret lies in the tanning process. First, our hides are soaked in curing tannin oils and laid out to dry. As the leather shrinks, its pores tighten and close – this creates a natural barrier to moisture. And gives All-Weather Leather its distinctive pebble-grain texture. The result is leather that’s soft and supple to the touch, yet virtually impervious to the elements. There’s no need to pamper it with wax or silicones. A simple solution of bar soap and water is sufficient to remove most dirt and water-soluble stains.”

AWL requires very minimal care – just wiping with a damp cloth. More difficult stains may be removed with water and a mild bar soap such as Ivory or saddle soap. Caution should be used with any creams for cleaning or conditioning as the oils in the creams could soften and open the pores, thereby defeating the specialized shrinking process which makes the leather waterproof.