Native American Jewelry Repair – Vintage Inlay Belt Buckle

This is the first in a series of repair articles that I am writing in conjunction with Diane from Old Town Trading Co. in Scottsdale, AZ.  See contact information at the end of this article. We appreciate OTTC’s help and expertise in this series.

Read the introductory article “Repair and Restoration of Native American Jewelry”

 

Question:

Is it possible to repair or restore Native American jewelry?

 

Answer:

Yes, we have Native American Silversmiths working for us here on premises, who are accomplished artisans and expert repair people.  We service repairs for customers and jewelers all over the United States.

Question:

How can we find out what you can do and how much it will cost?

Answer:

You can photograph or scan your jewelry and email the picture to us.  We can usually give you an idea of the repair needed and a ballpark estimate from your photo.  If you decide to proceed, you then mail your jewelry to us.  Once we receive the item and have a chance to thoroughly inspect it we call you with a firm price for the repairs.

Question:

Can you outline the procedure for this inlay buckle repair?

Inlay buckle showing missing pieces.

Answer:

From the customer’s picture, we saw that 7 pieces of coral and shell were missing.  An estimate for this repair was $85.00 plus $15 to return ship and insure.  However, once we received the buckle, we found that the back of the buckle had serious cracks forming in the silver at two edges.  It looked like the buckle had flexed back at that point, causing the tearing to begin.  All of the missing stones were right on top of the bend – that’s no doubt why they popped out.

 

Back of buckle showing stress cracks from bending.

Question:

What do you do at that point?

 

Answer:

Simply replacing the missing stones was still an option.  However, once metal has bent, it “wants” to bend in that very same spot again, causing further damage to the piece.  We suggested to the owner that our silversmith could solder a thicker sheet of silver to the back of the buckle, making it much stronger and resistant to any further flexing. 

 

Question:

How is that done?

 

Answer:

Our silversmith removes all of the stones from the front, as well as all of the pieces from the back (the buckle bar, pin, and Massie’s signature plate).  He hot solders a piece of sterling silver, cut exactly to size, to the back of the buckle to add stability, and then reattaches everything the way it was.  The end result is that the buckle looks exactly the same as it did, just a little heftier in weight.

 

Question:

Was there an additional charge for that?

 

Answer:

Yes.  The charge for restoring the buckle in this fashion was $200, instead of $85.  The customer decided to have us restore his buckle, as he was looking forward to wearing it frequently.

Repaired buckle back

Repaired buckle front.

 

Old Town Trading Company has been in business in Scottsdale, AZ for 26 years and has 2 Native American artists who perform expert repairs and renovations to new and vintage pieces.

 

Old Town Trading Co. / Jewels of the West

4009 N. Brown Avenue

Scottsdale, AZ  85251

480-970-8065

Attn: Diane

jewelsofthewest@qwestoffice.net

 

Any information on this well worn buckle?

Hi Paula,

I wonder if you know anything about this old buckle. Tony

Hi Tony,

It is chip inlay.

Chip inlay is a method where cavities in jewelry are filled with a mixture of crushed stone, typically turquoise and coral, and epoxy resin. The piece is then polished smooth after the resin has hardened. Navajo Tommy Singer is credited for first using chip inlay in Native American jewelry.

It is of a peyote or water bird – you can read about that symbol by clicking this phrase.

It is likely by Tommy Singer, Navajo silversmith.  Here are some articles about other Tommy Singer pieces.

Pin Pendant

Pin

Chip Inlay Pin with TC S Hallmark

Hi Paula:

I have a piece that is SS with turquoise chip inlay. The hallmark is TC with a S over the C. I’ve been told it may be Tommy Singer’s work. I would like to track down the artist. Can you help?

Kirk

Hi Kirk,

In The Little Book of Marks on Southwestern Silver by Bille Hougart (2011) that hallmark is shown in a photo and is attributed to Tommy Singer.

Paula

What tribe are these rings from and when?

I wear these rings daily. They are my personal rings and are just wondering when and what tribe they may be from. Was told dates between 1930 and 1950. Nothing confirmed on tribe. No markings inside band just silver folding marks on ring without the coral.

Thanks again, Wade

Hi Wade,

These chip inlay rings look like they are Navajo made. As to when they were made, well since chip inlay techniques are said to have been invented in the 1960s by Tommy Singer , these rings are probably from after that, most likely 1970s or later.

We have some rings very similar to these in our pawn shop .

What is Chip Inlay?

Chip inlay is a method where cavities in jewelry are filled with a mixture of crushed stone, typically turquoise and coral, and epoxy resin. The piece is then polished smooth after the resin has hardened. Navajo Tommy Singer is often credited for first using chip inlay in Native American jewelry.

Is this chip inlay pin pendant an early Tommy Singer piece?

Hi Paula !

Happy Holidays to you and your Family! 

In researching a silver piece I own, I came upon your blog.  I’m trying to find out if the combo brooch/pin/pendant is by the silversmith Tommy Singer.  The design has chip inlay.  On the back, there is a capital “T” hallmark.  I understand this might be an earlier hallmark. 

I was looking to receive your opinion on if this was infact Tommy Singer’s work.  May I send you photos of the piece so you can help to identify the piece?  (I have 2 photos)

Thank you for your time.

Sincerely,  Dena

Hi Dena,

Happy Holidays to you too !

Judging from the photos you sent, it  looks like early Tommy Singer chip inlay of a yei figure.

What is Chip Inlay?

Chip inlay is a method where cavities in jewelry are filled with a mixture of crushed stone, typically turquoise and coral, and epoxy resin. The piece is then polished smooth after the resin has hardened. Navajo Tommy Singer is often credited for first using chip inlay in Native American jewelry.

The T hallmark is attributed to Navajo silversmith Tommy Singer in these two books:

Hallmarks of the Southwest by Barton Wright

and

The Little Book of Marks on Southwestern Silver by Bille Hougart.

Native American Symbol – Peyote (Water) Bird Colors

What do the coral and turquoise inlay represent in the peyote (or water) bird?  I have heard they refer to fire & ice, but I would like a better explanation if you happen to know.  [Or if you know of a place to refer me to]  I want to put a peyote bird on my fire place mantle in cut stone and emulate it, but would like to know why first..??  Why the two colors?  Thank you for your time, your website has been most helpful!

Lisa

Hi Lisa,

To expand or clarify on my previous postings on this subject, the peyote bird is associated with the Plains Indians and the Native American Church and the water bird is associated with the Hohokam culture. And yet many people consider these symbols to be very similar or the same.

The Hohokam were the early inhabitants of south central Arizona.

Evidence of their life there dates between 100 B. C. and A. D. 1500. Today’s Pima Indians and Tohono O’odham (formerly Papago) are said to be Hohokam descendants. The first known turquoise jewelry of the southwest was found in this location.

Archeological Remains of the Hohokam Culture in the Southwest United States

The peyote bird, AKA snake bird and water turkey, is associated with the Native American Church and the ritual use of peyote there by the church members. The expansion of the Native American Church to many regions has also brought about the widespread of the use of the peyote bird as a symbol by many Native American artists regardless of their tribal affiliation or geographical location.

Native American Church Symbol - Peyote Bird

The shape of portions of the peyote bird correspond to portions of the Native American Church ceremonies:

the head shaped like the rattle used in the ceremonies

the wings outspread like the ceremonial altar

the fan-like lower body like the tipi where the services are held.

Hand carved and hand painted Peyote Bird Necklace by Lonny Cloud

Chip inlay is one of the most popular ways to depict the peyote bird. Chip inlay utilizes small pieces of stone chips left over from use in other projects. Therefore, since the most common stones used in Southwestern Native American jewelry are turquoise and coral, those are the traditional colors used in almost all chip inlay.

Navajo Sterling Silver and Chip Inlay Peyote Bird Pin Pendant

I am not familiar with any symbolism of the colors specifically but just that turquoise and coral were available, made a good contrast to each other (like fire and ice), so have been used that way for a long time.

Peyote Bird Chip Inlay Squash Blossom Necklace

Hi Paula,

I have a gorgeous 29 in long peyote bird chip inlay squash blossom necklace circa 1970. Initials JD are on the naja piece. No other markings.  Any idea who JD is?  I think JD Massie signs his full name. MaryAnn

Peyote Bird Chip Inlay Squash Blossom Necklace

What is Chip Inlay?

Chip inlay is a method where cavities in jewelry are filled with a mixture of crushed stone, typically turquoise and coral, and epoxy resin. The piece is then polished smooth after the resin has hardened. Navajo Tommy Singer is credited for first using chip inlay in Native American jewelry.

Hi MaryAnn,

I have 6 JD s in my hallmark book and none of them are of the right tribe,
era or type of work to do that chip inlay.

J.D. Massie is Zuni and I’ve never seen Zuni do chip inlay.

So we are looking for a Navajo artist.

Here are some examples of Navajo Chip Inlay work.

I thought I’d post your photos in case another reader might have some ideas or suggestions about JD.

Let me know if you come up with anything.

Native American Jewelry – Can you help with this buckle?

Hi Paula,

I have a Native American eagle belt buckle. Silvertone with turquoise chip inlay. The back of the buckle has an Indian head as the mark/logo. Would this be a specific artist or school? The metal is heavy.
Thank you, Wanda

((Note: To preserve Wanda’s privacy since she is going to try to sell her buckle, I am not using the photo of her buckle but of one very similar to it as an example.))

 

Plated Steel Manufactured Non-Native American Buckle

 

Hi Wanda,

From looking at the photo, I’d say chrome or nickel plated steel.

I can see a bit of evidence of the plating wearing off the back.

It just doesn’t look like Sterling Silver but the only way to know for sure is to have it tested. I’m 99% sure it is not.

This would not be Native American made. I’m 100% sure on that. Therefore it should not be called Native American.

The material used for chips doesn’t look like natural turquoise or coral – they are too bright and artificial looking.  I’m 100% sure on that.

I’ve never seen that type of hallmark on the back nor is it in any of my hallmark books. It is likely the logo of the manufacturer.

Paula

Thank you, Paula

I appreciate the input. Knowing what it is NOT is helpful when I list it on eBay.

You are kind to have taken the time to help me. Now that I have your website, it is in My Favorites and I will visit often.

Take care, Wanda

My pleasure Wanda,

It is good when sellers such as yourself take the time to find out what they have before describing it and possibly inadvertently (and in other cases intentionally) misrepresenting it as Native American – which, by the way, is illegal on eBay and against Federal laws in the US. More on all that in a future post. It is always best to be informed and honest when selling. Best of luck.

Read this For more information on buying and selling Native American Jewelry.

Authentic Zuni Inlay Belt Buckle by Leslie and Gladys Lamy