Buttons on Native American dresses, shirts. leggings and moccasins were originally of bone, shell, stone and other natural materials.
In the mid 1800’s, a few Navajo began to learn the art of silversmithing from Mexican plateros.
To learn more on that, read my article Where did Navajo silversmiths learn their craft?
Early silver beads and buttons were made from coins. Later when silver and sterling silver were more available, buttons were made from ingots and sheet silver.
Read about early Navajo silversmiths.
Early buttons from about 1870 were round, flat and with two holes like conventional buttons. Plain domed silver buttons were made soon thereafter.
Buttons were originally for fastening garments but soon became more ornamental and even were used as a trade item. Navajo Indian agent John H. Bowman observed in 1886 “When they wish to buy anything and have no wool to exchange, they simply cut off the needed number of buttons. These vary in value from 2 1/2 cents to $1 – and are never refused as legal tender in this vicinity.”
With access to more diverse tools in the late 1800s and early 1900s, hand-made buttons were domed, filed, etched, fluted, stamped and a loop would be forge-soldered onto the back.
Stones were added about 1900.
See the end of this article for several book excerpts that show button-making techniques.
When button production became mechanized (die cut and machine stamped) hand-made buttons which were labor intensive couldn’t compete price-wise so fewer were made. That’s why hand-made Navajo buttons are fairly scarce.
A mixture of vintage buttons and contemporary button covers – can you tell which are which?
Enter button covers………………
A variety of sterling silver button covers
The 1970s Native American jewelry boom (see my article The 1970s Native American Jewelry Boom) and the popularity of southwestern and western style dress beginning in the 1980s brought us the tourist version of the Native American button – the button cover – a clever system that could be slipped over and clasped to any button to dress up a shirt or dress. Instant Urban Cowboy !
Manufactured (not Native American made) southwestern style sterling silver button covers.
Contemporary Southwest Style Azurite Button Covers
Contemporary Southwest Style Turquoise Heart Button Covers
Buffalo Nickel Button Covers
The hinged fasteners are machine made of plated steel or stainless steel.
Commercially stamped sterling silver button covers
The design portion or button cover top is usually made of sterling silver. They can be Native American hand-made or commercially machine made.
Contemporary Native American made button covers
Yellowhorse hallmark on above group of button covers
Since most buttons and button covers do not have hallmarks, it requires experience and a good eye to recognize design styles and see details under magnification to determine whether the button tops are hand made or machine made.
Likely these are Native American made concha style sterling silver button covers.
It is possible that the sterling silver shadowbox bear paws with turquoise cabochon were made in a Native American shop.
Navajo-made onyx button covers with dangles – you might ask why one has the oval dangle stones set horizontally and the other vertically……….this is not a set but two individual button covers designed to be worn on the top button of a shirt or blouse. So perhaps his and hers?
BOOK EXCERPTS SHOWING HOW BUTTONS ARE MADE
Indian Silversmithing by E. Ben Hunt
Indian Silversmithing by E. Ben Hunt
Indian Jewelry Making by Oscar T. Branson
Paula
Native American Jewelry Tips 