Native American Jewelry – Can you help with this buckle?

Hi Paula,

I have a Native American eagle belt buckle. Silvertone with turquoise chip inlay. The back of the buckle has an Indian head as the mark/logo. Would this be a specific artist or school? The metal is heavy.
Thank you, Wanda

((Note: To preserve Wanda’s privacy since she is going to try to sell her buckle, I am not using the photo of her buckle but of one very similar to it as an example.))

 

Plated Steel Manufactured Non-Native American Buckle

Plated Steel Manufactured Non-Native American Buckle

 

Hi Wanda,

From looking at the photo, I’d say chrome or nickel plated steel.
I can see a bit of evidence of the plating wearing off the back.
It just doesn’t look like Sterling Silver but the only way to know for sure is to have it tested. I’m 99% sure it is not.

This would not be Native American made. I’m 100% sure on that. Therefore it should not be called Native American.

The material used for chips doesn’t look like natural turquoise or coral – they are too bright and artificial looking.  I’m 100% sure on that.

I’ve never seen that type of hallmark on the back nor is it in any of my hallmark books. It is likely the logo of the manufacturer.
Paula

Thank you, Paula
I appreciate the input. Knowing what it is NOT is helpful when I list it on eBay.
You are kind to have taken the time to help me. Now that I have your website, it is in My Favorites and I will visit often.
Take care, Wanda

My pleasure Wanda,
It is good when sellers such as yourself take the time to find out what they have before describing it and possibly inadvertently (and in other cases intentionally) misrepresenting it as Native American – which, by the way, is illegal on eBay and against Federal laws in the US. More on all that in a future post. It is always best to be informed and honest when selling. Best of luck.

Authentic Zuni Inlay Belt Buckle by Leslie and Gladys Lamy

Authentic Zuni Inlay Belt Buckle by Leslie and Gladys Lamy

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Native American Jewelry Tips – Getting Off a Tight Ring

Have you ever put a ring on and couldn’t get it off?

Hopi Man in the Maze Ring

Hopi Man in the Maze Ring

Don’t panic – we’ve all probably done this at one time or another.

Our fingers swell with the seasons and at different times of the day depending on blood pressure, exercise, humidity, diet (salt, food sensitivities) and maybe even star alignment.

Zuni Inlay God's Eye Ring

Zuni Inlay God’s Eye Ring

Here are a couple of methods to get a tight ring off of your finger without wrenching or causing you unnecessary stress:

1. Cold soapy water. The cold water reduces swelling and shrinks the finger while the soap lubricates the skin.

2. Windex. A few spritzs on the puffy finger will usually allow a tight ring to slide off. Maybe it’s the alcohol or other ingredients, but it works like magic.

3. Olive oil. Better to use this one with rings that don’t have gems or stones. Works great with sterling silver and gold bands.

Navajo Sterling Silver Overlay Ring

Navajo Sterling Silver Overlay Ring

What are your favorite tips for getting off that tight ring?

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Native American Jewelry Methods – Sterling Silver Stamped Bracelet

One of the first types of bracelets made by Navajo silversmiths was a Die Stamped Bracelet.

Stamped Sterling Silver Cuff Bracelet by Navajo Silversmith Mary Bill

Stamped Sterling Silver Cuff Bracelet by Navajo Silversmith Mary Bill

Worn by both men and women, the die stamp bracelet is a simple design that requires few tools to make.

First the silversmith cuts a strip of 16 gauge sterling silver to fit the intended wrist size. Since cuff bracelets often have a 1” gap give or take a ½” or so, when making bracelets for a 7” wrist, the smith would start with a 6” long strip of sterling silver and as wide as desired.

Sterling Silver Stamped Wide Cuff by Navajo Silversmith Ken Bill

Sterling Silver Stamped Wide Cuff by Navajo Silversmith Ken Bill

The strip is either left a uniform width (see wide cuff above)

OR is shaped so that the front of the bracelet (the center of the strip) is the widest portion and the bracelet tapers to narrower ends

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OR the ends are widened to form fish-tail ends, for comfort, such as on the large, heavy bracelet below by Mary and Kenneth Bill.

Then the edges might be further shaped into scallops or other edge contours (cut and filed). Then while stamping close to the edge, the stamp design and edging are blended harmoniously.

Navajo Sterling Silver Stamped Bracelet with Detailed Edging by Wilbert Benally

Navajo Sterling Silver Stamped Bracelet with Detailed Edging by Wilbert Benally

Next the design is chosen. Then the appropriate dies (hardened steel tools with design stamps on one end and a striking surface on the other) are used to create the figures and patterns on the silver blank. When the die is held in one hand and a hammer (with a steel head) is held in the other, it is referred to as hand stamping.

Detailed Stamped Sterling Silver Cuff by Navajo Silversmith Vincent Platero

Detailed Hand Stamped Sterling Silver Cuff by Navajo Silversmith Vincent Platero

Some modern artists use a machine to apply stamped designs.

If a hallmark is going to be stamped on the inside, it is done so now, along with any metal designation such as Sterling or 14K. We intentionally don’t show photos of the hallmarks of Native American artists because counterfeiters often copy the hallmarks onto the fake jewelry they make. Out of respect to the artists whose work we represent, we try never to reveal the hallmarks.

Finally the bracelet is formed over a mandrel using a rawhide, wooden or leather mallet.. A mandrel is a hardened steel “arm” that tapers from a small size to a large size. The mandrel might be part of an anvil or a separate piece clamped onto a work bench. Where and how the bracelet is shaped on the mandrel will determine its finished overall shape and gap dimension.

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Native American Jewelry Methods – Silver Dust

Silver Dust

silver dust braceletSilver Dust, or Silverdust, is a technique that Navajo silversmiths use to add texture, contrast and sparkle to the background of a piece. Sterling silver shavings or filings are applied to the surface of a sterling silver piece and then silverdust earringsheated just enough for the particles to adhere – resulting in a textured background. The silverdust process is more complicated that this quick description and involves other ingredients and great skill with the heat. If stones are going to be added to a piece, they are added after all heating processes, such as silverdusting, are completed first.

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Native American Fetish Carvings – What are they used for?

Today people buy Native American fetish carvings for various reasons.

 

Rainbow Calsilica Medicine Bear by Zuni Emery Eriacho

Rainbow Calsilica Medicine Bear by Zuni Emery Eriacho

Fetishes represent a way in which Native peoples use a symbolic piece of artwork to help them with life. Non-native American people have long looked to the ways of Native Americans for inspiration, wisdom and healing. Fetishes traditionally have been used to help Native peoples with hunting, farming, fertility, disease cures, and to keep away evil.

Stone carved fetishes are also worn as a pendant and as fetish necklaces. If you visit this page Animal Pendants you will see several stones fetishes. The medicine bear or fetish bear is a symbol of healing and good health. To read more click here to see about Fetish Animal Powers. To see Fetish Animal Necklaces.

Fetishes can be used to help one focus, meditate or to deal with grief and commemorate the loss of a loved one or being. Zuni and Navajo fetish carvings are are beautiful and are simply nice to look at and hold.

High quality fetishes carved by noted carvers are collectible and in some cases, a good investment.

Dolomite Horse Fetish Carving by Zuni Rodney Laiwakete

Dolomite Horse Fetish Carving by Zuni Rodney Laiwakete

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Native American Materials – Gold

Gold is the most malleable of precious metals and is prized for jewelry because it does not corrode, tarnish or rust. It can be found nearly everywhere, in rivers, mountains and oceans, but it is very difficult and expensive to mine and refine.

The karat is a unit of measurement for the proportion of gold an item contains.

14K Gold and Sterling Silver Bracelet by Navajo Bruce Morgan
14K Gold and Sterling Silver Bracelet by Navajo Bruce Morgan
  • 24 karat (24K) gold is pure gold. Pure gold is very soft and it is usually alloyed (combined) with other metals for increased hardness and durability. Metals typically used in gold alloys are copper, silver, nickel, zinc, tin, palladium, and/or manganese. The metal used will affect the color of the gold: yellow, rose, green or white. (People with nickel allergies should be aware that white gold contains nickel.)
  • 18 karat (18K) gold contains 18 parts gold and 6 parts other metal, making it 75% gold.
  • 14 karat (14K) gold contains 14 parts gold and 10 parts other metal, making it 58.3% gold.
  • 12 karat (12K) gold contains 12 parts gold and 12 parts other metal, making it 50% gold.
  • 10 karat (10K) gold contains 10 parts gold and 14 parts other metal, making it 41.7% gold. 10k gold is the minimum karat designation that can still be called gold in the USA.
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14K Gold and Sterling Silver Bracelet by Apache Marc Antia

14K Gold and Sterling Silver Bracelet by Apache Marc Antia

(Carat spelled with a “c” refers to the weight of a gemstone and equals 200mg.)

Gold and Sterling Silver Navajo Money Clips and Key Rings
Gold and Sterling Silver Navajo Money Clips and Key Rings

To be called gold-filled, the FTC (U.S. Federal Trade Commission) requires that gold makes up at least 1/20th (5%) by weight of the total product. Legal markings are 14K, 12K, or 10K Gold-filled and the karat measurement of gold content MUST be part of the marking or designation.

Jewelry labeled 14/20GF denotes 1/20 14K gold-filled; 12/10 denotes 1/10 12K gold-filled.

12K Gold Filled Storyteller Link Bracelet by Navajo Alonzo Mariano
12K Gold Filled Storyteller Link Bracelet by Navajo Alonzo Mariano

Rolled Gold Plate (RGP) is made the same way as gold-filled material, but with a lower gold content. The minimum standard states that 1/40th the total weight of the item must be gold of the karat the item is marked. Thus a product marked 14K RGP is 1/40th (2.5%) 14K gold by weight.

Gold Electroplate is a process in which a very thin layer of gold is deposited onto a conductive metal item. Utilizing an electrical current, positively charged metal “ions” travel through a liquid solution known as an “electrolyte”, and are deposited onto the negatively charged metal object. Metals most commonly electroplated are silver, copper, bronze, and aluminum.

14K Gold and Sterling Silver Eternal Life Ring by Navajo Scott Skeets

14K Gold and Sterling Silver Eternal Life Ring by Navajo Scott Skeets

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Native American Fetishes – Zuni Carving Families

All tribes in the Southwest US make small stone carvings. Sacred ones are called fetishes. The Pueblo Indians have developed the use of these carvings and it is the Zuni that are the most skillful stone carvers of the Pueblos. Evidence of fetish use has been documented to pre-Columbian times. Columbian times refer to those that occurred after European influence, or after Columbus landed in the Americas in 1492.

While there were only a few dozen Zuni carvers as recent as 20 or 30 years ago, today there may be as many as 300 Zuni carvers that belong to a dozen or more noted Zuni artist families.

Here are some of the Zuni carvers’ family names:

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BooneZuni Horse Fetish Carving
BooquaHand made Native American Indian Pig fetish carving
BowannieZuni penguin Fetish Carving
Cachini Hand made Native American Indian Fox fetish carving
CooeyateHand made Native American Indian Fox fetish carving
DavisHand made Native American Indian Ram fetish carving
DeyuseHand made Native American Indian horse fetish carving
GasperZuni wolf Fetish Carving
HalateZuni turtle Fetish Carving
HalooZuni owl Fetish Carving
LaateZuni coyote Fetish Carving
LaiwaketeZuni Horse Fetish Carving
LasilooZuni Horse Fetish Carving
LeekyaZuni Horse Fetish Carving
LementinoHand made Native American Indian sheep fetish carving

LonaseeZuni bear Fetish Carving
LucioHand made Native American Indian Buffalo fetish carving
LunaseeZuni tutrle Fetish Carving
MacHand made Native American Indian Ram fetish carving
MahootyZuni bear Fetish Carving
NatewaZuni horse Fetish Carving
PanteahZuni ram Fetish Carving
PintoZuni ram Fetish Carving
Poncho Hand made Native American Indian Rabbit fetish carving
PonchuellaHand made Native American Indian Pig fetish carving
QuamZuni Horse Fetish Carving
QuandelacyZuni bear Fetish Carving
ShackAuthentic Native American Indian  horse carving fetish
TsikewaZuni bear Fetish Carving
WallaceHand made Native American Indian Ram fetish carving

For more detailed information on Zuni carving families, refer to Zuni Fetishes & Carvings by Kent McManis.

Zuni Fetishes and Carvings by Kent McManis

Zuni Fetishes and Carvings by Kent McManis

A Native American fetish is a carving from rock, shell, antler, wood or other material that depicts an animal or other spirit. The carving captures the spirit and the essence of the animal, not necessarily its exact detailed conformation. When a carving has been blessed during a Zuni Medicine ceremony at the winter solstice, it becomes a fetish and is considered sacred. Fetishes are either kept by the carvers or given away to members of their tribe or other people.

Carvings that are very old may have been handed down for generations or have been tribal possessions for hundreds of years. It is believed that these carvings were actually live animals at one time and were petrified into stone beings by a magic bolt of lightning during the drying of the world. There were many such beings all over the earth’s surface which have been found over the years. It is said that whosever is of the good fortune to see such beings should treasure them for the sake of their sacred power which was given to them during the earth’s creation.

Today what we sell and most of what is sold elsewhere as a fetish is actually a rock carving, but it is very common to refer to them as fetishes, so we describe these wonderful stone animals as fetish carvings.

When one believes that a spirit resides in an inanimate object, that is called animism. When an inanimate object, such as a carving reminds one of the spirit of a being, that is a different matter. The difference between the two words is primarily a matter of belief. But in respect to the Zuni tradition, these carvings are not fetishes. However choosing one of these carvings is a very personal matter. If a carving speaks to you and makes you feel a certain way when you look at it, perhaps it is what you have been looking for to put on your desk or carry in your pocket. Similarly, if you are on a walk and you happen upon a stone that is already shaped like a buffalo and you pick it up and make it yours, that is powerful.

According to Zuni traditions, animals are divided up into 3 categories:

1. Game animals are those the furnish flesh to man. Today these animals are often referred to as prey animals because they are the prey of meat-eating predators. This would include deer, elk and rabbit, to name a few.

2. Water animals are those associated sacredly with water, not necessarily just animals who live in the water. This would include the dolphin, frog and the turtle.

3. Prey beings are those animals who hunt other animals to eat. Today these animals are often referred to as predators who prey upon game animals. This would include bear, wolf, and mountain lion.

Traditional carvings, sometimes referred to as “reservation fetishes”, tend to be of the “old style” with few details and are most commonly Prey Beings. Old style carvings are basically rectangular pieces of stone that have been shaped into animal forms. Often it is difficult to differentiate between a bear and wolf, for example, or a wolf and a mountain lion. They all look similar, kind of hunkered to the ground. The old style carvings make one think that the Native American artist saw an animal in a stone and just coaxed it out with a few simple lines. These are often referred to as “concretion fetishes”, stones that require very little carving to bring out or release the animal in the stone.

For hundreds of years, other tribes procured fetishes from the Zuni. While it is not customary for a Zuni to carve domestic animals, such as horses, sheep, cattle and goats, for personal use, they do so for Navajo herdsmen to protect their animals. That is why it is possible to purchase a wide variety of Zuni horse carvings today.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Modern Native American stone carvings can be quite ornate and detailed and very beautiful. They often have much intricate work and various types of inlay. Also, the posture of the animal might be different from that of traditional carving. Modern carvers might depict an animal running, rearing, sitting or standing up on its hind legs. Some carvers give a bear a fish to eat, so the carving becomes a miniature sculpture with a story.

 

Native American Materials – Rhodochrosite

Rhodochrosite, Mother of Pearl, Opal and Sterling Silver Channel Inlay Braceley by Navajo Shirley Tso

Rhodochrosite, Mother of Pearl, Opal and Sterling Silver Channel Inlay Bracelet by Navajo Shirley Tso

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Rhodochrosite is a beautiful mineral with crystal like qualities that make it seem like it is lit from within. Pink and white bands and neighboring other colors of the manganese ore make for a variety of patterns and color combinations. The name rhodochrosite means rose-colored.

The first Native American Rhodochrosite pendant I saw looked good enough to eat. If you don’t think of a Neapolitan (chocolate, strawberry and vanilla) ice cream sundae with marshmallow topping, well……..

Yummy Navajo Rhodochrosite Pendant

Yummy Navajo Rhodochrosite Pendant

Colorado officially named rhodochrosite as its state mineral in 2002. While the mineral is found worldwide, large red crystals are found only in a few places on earth, and some of the best specimens have been found in the Sweet Home Mine near Alma, Colorado.

 

Navajo Sterling Silver and Rhodochrosite Bracelet and Pendant

Navajo Sterling Silver and Rhodochrosite Bracelet and Pendant

Native American Jewelry – Antiquing

Hello,

While shopping your Bargain Barn, I have a question.

The descriptions of the following 2 bracelets say:

“This bracelet came in an estate group along with other pieces that were verifiable Native American made pieces. But this one has an artificial patina on the sterling silver from an acid wash.”

 

Sterling Silver and Turquoise Bargain Barn Bracelet

Sterling Silver and Turquoise Bargain Barn Bracelet

 

 

Vintage Sterling Silver and Turquoise Bargain Barn Bracelet

Vintage Sterling Silver and Turquoise Bargain Barn Bracelet

 

My question is – How could you tell that it had an artificial patina?  I didn’t know acid was used to produce patina (although I guess that’s what it does in the test for silver).  I thought chemicals like liver of sulfur were used to patinate silver – like to darken the lower level in shadowbox and overlay jewelry.

Regards, Joan

Hi Joan,

That was a typo – it was meant to say “alkaline wash” or “has been antiqued” and I have made that correction on the description of those two bracelets – thank you very much for calling that to my attention.

Yes liver of sulfur is often used by Native American artists for shadowbox, storyteller, and overlay techniques to create a darkened background for contrast with the bright shiny sterling silver elements of a piece.
Antiquing is also used on sterling silver Navajo beads, such as these by Virginia Tso.
Antiqued Sterling Silver Navajo Beads by Virginia Tso

Antiqued Sterling Silver Navajo Beads by Virginia Tso

We know it is an artificial patina on those bracelets from the experience of seeing the patina on very old pieces (which is somewhat spotty) vs. patina which appears to have been applied (and seems more uniform like a wash).

You can read more about Patina and Tarnish in this article.

The bracelets are sterling silver and have very nice stones. When we can’t authenticate the maker of a bracelet as Native American, we put the items in our Bargain Barn at half the price.
Thanks again for the good eyes and come back and visit !

Native American Materials – Sleeping Beauty Turquoise

Sleeping Beauty Turquoise is bright blue turquoise with distinct, often black, matrix. The matrix is the veining that appears in the stone.

Sleeping Beauty Turquoise Belt Buckle by Navajo Dan Martinez

Sleeping Beauty Turquoise Belt Buckle by Navajo Dan Martinez

The mine is located in Globe, Arizona in Gila County.

Sleeping Beauty turquoise is a uniform blue turquoise that is easily matched and cut so is a popular choice in Native American jewelry.

 

Sleeping Beauty Nugget Bracelet by Navajo Wilbur Muskett Jr.

Sleeping Beauty Nugget Bracelet by Navajo Wilbur Muskett Jr.

 

Read more about the Sleeping Beauty Turquoise Mine.

 

Sleeping Beauty Cross by Navajo Clem Nailwood

Sleeping Beauty Cross by Navajo Clem Nailwood